country hearth 2000 stove manual

country hearth 2000 stove manual

For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. The original owner was happy with this stove, making it his primary heater for about 2000 sq. ft. The new owner was wondering about performance and any working tips or tricks that this particular model might require. Thanks in advance for any info. Proper installation is part of the mix. I'm sure others will give you the performance tips shortly Edit: I know I had a link but must have forgot to paste it! It heats up very quickly, works very well with seasoned wood in fact you have to be careful as it is very easy to get a run away stove if your not careful. I dont need to do an overnight burn but i did try it a couple of times and it is possible to restart after 8 hours. Quality is as expected from a designed in USA made in China.I'll pass along all your helpful info. If this stove hadn't been a freebie I don't think he'd have wound up with it, being that it is a starter stove and used to boot. He's not exactly short on funds (wife is a doc) but we thought it might be a nice install for his basement workshop. Need to be very conscious of introduction of fumes etc. Outside air kit is a definite. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. I just bought a country hearth 2000 wood stove and trying to figure out the floor and wall protection for this unit manual is not much help. Thank you in advance. Make sure you burn with dry wood or the stove will drive you batty. Congrats on the purchase. Here is a post on your stove, I just bought a country hearth 2000 wood stove and trying to figure out the floor and wall protection for this unit manual is not much help. Thank you in advance.FLOOR PROTECTOR Your wood stove should be placed on a 1 inch, non-combustible surface with a k factor of 0.84.http://djsjgs.com/uploadfile/20200902230446.xml

• country hearth 2000 wood stove manual, us stove country hearth 2000 manual, country hearth 2000 stove manual, country hearth 2000 stove manual pdf, country hearth 2000 stove manual download, country hearth 2000 stove manual instructions, country hearth 2000 stove manual diagram, country hearth wood stove 2000 owners manual, country hearth 2000 wood stove manual.

For multiple layers, add R-values of each layer to determine the overall R-value. The R value for the required board is 1.2. The floor protector should be under the stove, twenty-six inches beyond the front and six inches beyond each side of the fuel loading and ash removal opening. If there is a horizontal section of chimney connector, the floor protector should go under it and two inches beyond each side I strongly suggest you get ahead on your wood supply. EPA stoves need good seasoned firewood to operate correctly. I have the same stove and here is what I did for my hearth. It's kind of hillbilly but it got me the required R value. I framed my hearth with the ripped 2x10's the distance required away from the stove. Like beams going across the hearth and some where the stove would sit for extra support. Screwed cement board to the outside framing and then put tile on top. Make sure your floor can support it. Mine is right close to the center support girder of the house. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. This model on pedestal is CSA B415.1-10 certified and its large firebox allows it to fit logs up to 20 inches long. It operates by converting heat into electricity. 105 CFM Suitable for sealing around oven windows, flues on gas appliances, joints and metal stacks and ductwork. An excellent gasket maker to replace existing cork and felt rubber. Ideal for holding gaskets around stove and fireplace doors.Suitable for sealing around oven windows, flues on gas appliances, joints and metal stacks and ductwork. Ideal for holding gaskets around stove and fireplace doors.Excellent adherence and color retention. Designed almost exclusively for ash collection, this ash vacuum cleaner will offer several years of service with proper care. Power: 800 W. Fire-resistant kevlar sewings. The insulation contains no hazardous substances that may pose a health hazard. The insulation contains no hazardous substances that may pose a health hazard.http://cieesc.com/userfiles/candy-cd222a-service-manual.xml

Leaves no residue. Odorless. The recommended heated area for a given appliance is defined by the manufacturer as its capacity to maintain a minimum acceptable temperature in the designated area in case of a power failure.Buy it online or from your local dealer.The ash drawer enables you to empty your heaterIt makes cleaning moreIf you do not have an ash drawer, you can scoop outThe ash drawer enables you to empty your heaterIt makes cleaning moreIf you do not have an ash drawer, you can scoop outHowever, if your paint has completelyMany things can cause a unit toIt is important to identify why the heater has overheated. Otherwise, it may wear out prematurely. If the paint has not peeled off, you need to prepare the surface with a 180 grit sand paper. Then, repaint the heater with the original high temperature aerosol paint for a more resistant and uniform finish. If the paint has peeled off, you need to prepare the surface with a 180 grit sand paper and remove all the paint until you reach the steel. Solution: Make sure you use good, seasoned cord wood. The wood you burn plays an important role in the overall performance of your heater. Your wood should have been properly dried for approximately one year. Storage is also key. Wood that has been cut for one, two or even more years, will not necessarily be dry if it has been stored in poor conditions. Under extreme conditions, it may have rotten instead of drying. Smaller pieces of wood will dry faster. The wood should be stored in a place where the grass is not too long, and where the wind will be able to circulate between the logs. A 12-inch gap should be kept between the cords. The wood should be placed in the sunniest area and should be protected from the rain and snow on top, but not on the sides. Use a moisture reader to measure the moisture content of your wood. Ideally, it should be below 25%.

2- The logs are positioned too close to the glass and are obstructing the air flow that is necessary to keep the glass clean. Solution: Make sure to keep a minimum gap of 2 inches between the logs and the glass. 3- The chimney draft is too weak. Build a small, intense fire, and leave the door ajar (never leave the heater unattended). Before inserting larger logs, use dry kindling to obtain a good bed of red embers. Gradually increase the size of the logs. Leave the air intake fully open for approximately 15 minutes. Then, gradually close the air intake control. This is even favorable in order to properly start your heater. You must, however, avoid maintaining excessive temperatures (above the comfort zone on your thermometer) during a long period of time. Your chimney thermometer should be positioned on the exhaust pipe, approximately 18 inches above the unit. You first need to insure that the room where the heater is located is sufficiently large and well ventilated. Open the nearest window by approximately 2 inches. If you notice a significant improvement, it is a sign that the unit needs more oxygen. The room may be too insulated or too small. Without an additional source of oxygen, the draft will remain weak and cause the glass stay dirty. In order to obtain a sufficient draft, your chimney must have a minimum height. Twelve feet (from the heater to the chimney cap outside the house) is a minimum. A height of 15 feet or higher is ideal. When your chimney is oversized, the volume of air that needs to be warmed-up is larger. It is therefore difficult to reach temperatures that will allow for a sufficient draft.The heater must be hooked-up to a fresh air pipe that enables combustion air to come from outside the house. For most models, it is necessary to purchase an adapter that allows the connection of the fresh air pipe to the appliance. Consult our product literature to know if a particular model is mobile home approved.There are two resins in the paint.

One resin dries at room temperature, giving the paint the initial properties seen on a brand new stove. Then, when fires are built in the stove, this air-dry resin burns away. The other resin is a silicon resin (silicone gives the paint its high heat resistance) that will not cure until the appliance is heated at high temperatures. Paint may peel or discolor. As the paint heats-up, it will soften and even appear wet. It should not be touched with anything. Gradually, on the hottest spots (usually near the flue and working outwards) the paint will again appear dry. When this process is completed, the paint will be ready for the next stage. You will know when this occurs because the process creates some smoke and odour. The non-toxic smoke is primarily carbon dioxide, but there are other residual components that make it smell bad and may cause physical distress for some individuals or animals. This is why we recommend keeping the space vacant and ventilated. Until the second stage is reached, the curing process will be incomplete. Paint may appear to be a little glossy when first applied. High heat will cause all liquid paint to lose its glossy appearance. This can be controlled by the way you burn your appliance. After an overnight burn, you may have a more significant coal bed. Simply rake the coal bed forward and add a smaller piece of wood on top. Burn the appliance on a higher setting (air control fully open). This will pull more primary air into the firebox and will increase draft. The coal bed will burn down with the log. You may have to repeat this operation a couple of times before the coals are reduced. You are then ready to load your appliance with a larger fuel load. If you are looking for ambiance, a temporary heat source in a cottage or a camp, or a simple back-up heat source in case of power failure, you do not necessarily need to invest more money in order to buy an EPA or CSAB415.1-10 certified wood heater.

However, if your goal is to heat on a regular basis, the extra dollars will prove to be a good investment. Furthermore, it must be noted that certified heaters release up to 90% less particles into the atmosphere, which makes wood a renewable and clean source of heat. As a result, if the style and size of the heater you are looking for is available in a certified version, it is highly recommended that you invest in this advanced combustion technology. You will help the environment and reduce your wood consumption by up to 30%. NOTE: If you live in the United Sates, British Columbia, Ontario, Quebec, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick or Newfoundland, EPA certified wood heaters are mandatory. Exceptions apply for certain categories of products, such as decorative fireplaces. Certain municipalities may also have by-laws that require the installation of an EPA or CSAB415.1-10 wood heater, even though the province does not have an official regulation on wood heating. It must also be noted that in Canada, the CSAB415.1-10 Standard is equivalent to the EPA Standard. A wood heater that meets this Standard will generally comply with the regulation in place. Some people will buyThere is no good or bad reason forIf you simply want to enhance the ambiance of aSimply choseFor instance, if you want to heat an 800-square-foot area on one floor, you need to buy a heater with a minimum capacity of 800 sq. ft. If you need to heat more than one floor, keep in mind that heat rises. Therefore, a heater located in your basement will help you heat the main floor as well. However, the contrary is not true; a heater located on the main floor (ground floor) will not heat the basement. Keep in mind also that the more divisions there are in the house, the harder it will be to distribute the heat evenly. If you need to heat two floors, calculate the surface of the lower floor. Then, add 50% of the surface of the upper floor.

Then, add 50% of the surface of the middle floor, and 25% of the surface of the upper floor. Consult the drawing below. It will help you understand the explanations provided in this section. The room where the heater is located and the rooms directly above it will always reach higher temperatures than the rooms distant from the unit. If you want an even temperature throughout the house, you need to consider a central heating system, such as a warm air wood furnace. Furthermore, you must keep in mind that the size of the heater you need may vary based on the insulation of your house, its exposure to wind, and the number of windows. It will always be prudent to buy a heater with a capacity that is slightly higher than the minimum capacity that you need. For instance, if you need a minimum capacity of 1,400 sq.ft., it will be more prudent to buy a heater with a capacity of 1,600 sq.ft., if not 1,800 sq.ft. There are three main advantages in buying a larger appliance: the increased heating capacity, the ease of loading more and larger logs (as a result of the greater firebox volume), and the increased combustion time (given the higher loading capacity).You have many choices,You need to consult your owner'sIn the USA, theConnectors Connectors are simply steel pipes that connect the appliance to the insulated chimney. They are normally needed unless the appliance is already inserted into an enclosure (for instance, in the case of a zero-clearance wood fireplace). Connectors do not pass through combustible materials. The term “black pipe” is also often used in the industry. There are two types of connectors: - Single-wall pipes - Double-wall pipes As their name indicates, single-wall pipes have just one wall. A minimum of 18 inches is required between the pipe and a combustible wall. In general, single-wall pipes provide less insulation than double-wall pipes do and therefore require more clearance. This is the main drawback of single-wall pipes.

Their advantage is in their cost; they are nearly three times less expensive than double-wall pipes. As their name indicates, double-wall pipes have a second wall, i.e., an interior one made of stainless steel. The cushion of air between the two walls provides thermal insulation allowing the appliance to be installed much closer to walls. This is the main advantage of double-wall pipes. The required distance for each heater model is based on the safety tests conducted with each type of connector. You therefore need to properly consult the appliance’s owner’s manual in order to know the prescribed clearances from combustible materials. Chimney There are two types of chimneys: an insulated (or prefabricated) chimney or a masonry chimney. If you have a masonry chimney, it must meet the local building code. It must be lined with refractory bricks or tiles joint together with refractory cement. The chimney diameter should be the same as the appliance’s flue outlet (6 inches for most models). It is rarely the case with masonry chimneys. Their diameter is often bigger than the appliance’s flue outlet. The way to deal with this is to insert inside the masonry chimney a stainless steel liner that has the same diameter as the appliance’s flue outlet. Unless a liner is installed, serious draft problems can occur. An insulated chimney (or prefab chimney) is a stainless steel flue that has been tested to resist temperature as high as 2100F. It has a double wall filled with insulating wool. The majority of insulated chimneys have 2 inches of insulation, while some have just 1 inch. Others are air-insulated and have 3 walls; they are referred to as “triple-wall air-cooled chimneys. When we speak of a 6-inch chimney, we are referring to its interior diameter. If the chimney has 2 inches of insulation, the flue will have an exterior diameter of 10 inches.

In wood-heat system installations, we must use an insulated chimney for any flue that passes through walls, ceilings, attics and closets (i.e., all combustible surfaces in general). This chimney must also be installed outside the house. This option enables you to redistribute the heat from the back of your heater to the front of it and into the room. By forcing hot air toward the front of the heater, the blower extends the radiation power of your unit. Most appliances can also have a thermodisc installed. A thermodisc is a heat sensor connected to the back of the appliance and wired-up to the blower.The efficiency reported as per EPA’s directives consists of an average between four different burn rates, ranging from the lowest burn rate (air intake completely closed) to the highest burn rate (air intake completely open). The optimum efficiency that we publicize is the efficiency obtained according to the same test data, but for the low burn rate only. This efficiency is more realistic for a majority of users whose heating needs require that the unit be used to maximize burn times. The chimney must comply with the building code of your country, state or province. It usually needs to be lined with refractory bricks, metal, or clay tiles sealed together with fire cement. The diameter of the chimney must be the same as the appliance's flue outlet. If your masonry chimney does not have the same diameter as the appliance's flue outlet, you need to insert a stainless steel liner having the proper diameter. Otherwise, you may face draft problems. There are two types of liners: rigid and flexible liner. Both types are made of stainless steel. They must be certified for venting solid-fuel burning appliances. Flexible liner is particularly useful when the masonry chimney has one or more deviations. This can be very useful in case of power failure. This is sufficient to cook. The use of a pan or other cookware may scratch the paint.

An option is to use a cast iron cooking grid or simply lay a piece of stainless steel on top of the stove. This serves to accumulate the heat radiated by the firebox. The heat is then pushed in front of the unit and into the room by a blower. Without this feature, the heat radiated by the insert would be lost into the masonry cavity. Hence, a stove inserted into a masonry fireplace would not have the same efficiency. Furthermore, its clearances to combustible materials could vary. If the stove has not been tested for this type of installation, it cannot be inserted into a masonry opening. Solution: This is normal when your heater is new and has never been used. You need to heat your appliance two or three of times before the curing process is completed. Simply open a window in the room where the unit is located. The amount of smoke produced by the curing process should be very limited. If the area is well ventilated, there is no health hazard. The chimney in under negative pressure. Light-up a small quantity of newspaper in the appliance, as close as possible to the flue outlet. Leave the door slightly ajar. This small fire will slowly heat-up the chimney, until it is hot enough to create a normal draft inside the exhaust system. If needed, slowly increase the quantity of newspaper. When you realize that smoke is being evacuated normally through the exhaust system, you can build a normal fire. If your chimney runs along the outside wall of your house, it is possible to cover it up in order to protect it from the wind and the cold. A covered chimney will heat-up faster. Check if smoking problems occur when those devices are working. If it is the case, make sure you turn them off when you use your heater. Otherwise, you need to make sure that the air leaving the room is replaced by air from outside the house. For instance, you can open a window slightly (by one or two inches). Ideally, the source of fresh air should be located as close as possible to the heater.

A good, permanent solution is the installation of a fresh air intake. It should be located as close as possible to the unit. The appliance will draw its combustion air from this nearby supply. It will prevent the house from falling into negative pressure. Some units are designed to receive an adapter on which the fresh air supply pipe can be directly connected. This way, the appliance will always draw its combustion air from outside the house. In order to eliminate such interference, the extremity of your chimney should be at least two feet higher than any structure located within a ten-foot radius. It provides building owners and operators theThe Certification is based on the total point score achieved, following an independent review and an audit of selected Credits. The Canadian rating systems are an adaptation of the US Green Building Council's (USGBC) LEED Green Building Rating System, tailored specifically for Canadian climates, construction practices and regulations. The rating systems are adapted to the Canadian market through an inclusive process that engages stakeholders and experts representing the various sectors of the Canadian industry. Wood or pellet stoves, fireplaces, and inserts can qualify under LEED and obtain up to one point provided that they meet the following criteria. Solution: Make sure you use good, seasoned wood. Your wood should have been properly dried for about one year. Furthermore, it is better to use hardwood, such as oak, maple, beech, or ash. For the same volume, hardwood will produce more heat. Storage is also very important. Under extreme conditions, it may have rotted instead of drying. Ideally, it should be below 25%. 2- The air control mechanism is not open enough. The air control mechanism must always be closed gradually. You need to obtain a good bed of red embers and the logs must be completely lit up before you close the air control completely. This can easily take up to one hour.

3- The logs that you are using are too big. Solution: Use smaller pieces of wood and place them to allow proper air circulation between the logs. The same weight of wood cut in many small pieces will produce more heat than fewer, larger logs. Only add big logs when you have a good bed of red embers. Logs with a diameter exceeding 6 inches should always be split. Avoid stacking logs to the top of the firebox. 4- The chimney draft is too weak. You first need to ensure that the room where the heater is located is sufficiently large and well ventilated. It is therefore difficult to reach temperatures that will allow for a sufficient draft. If you have verified all the points mentioned above and your heater works fine, but still does not produce enough heat, you may be asking for more than what your appliance can realistically give you. It is normal that the heat is distributed unevenly inside your home. It will always be colder in the rooms that are distant from the heater. Furthermore, since heat rises, a heater located at the ground-floor level will not heat your basement. Solution 6: It is possible to increase heat circulation between the floors by installing floor traps. The location of your heater is also important. Try to install it in a central location. If you want to heat both your basement and the ground floor, install your heater in the basement. The heat will rise to the upper floors. Verify that the area you try to heat respects your appliance’s heating capacity. Your appliance’s heating capacity can be found on the printed literature, in the owner’s manual, or in the technical data section on our web site. Keep in mind that your appliance's heating capacity assumes optimum conditions. It may be too low in situations where a house is poorly insulated, or highly exposed to wind.

If you already have an appliance with a high heating capacity that works normally but does not heat enough, you probably need a central heating system, such as a warm air wood furnace. Solution: Make sure you use good, seasoned cord wood. Wood that has been cut for one, two or even more years will not necessarily be dry if it has been stored in poor conditions. It is therefore difficult to reach temperatures that will allow for a sufficient draft.The EPA output, on the other hand, is what has been obtained during emissions testing. The EPA test procedure requires that a special type of wood is used and positioned inside the firebox in a manner that does not represent the way the firebox volume would normally be utilized using seasoned cordwood. The EPA test load is typically much smaller. Hence, the BTU as per the EPA’s test data is reduced. The BTU output that should be considered by a normal user is the one we advertise for seasoned cordwood. Heaters with a 2.0 cubic foot firebox or more will normally have longer burn-times. From 6 to 8 hours is about the burn time you will get. Some companies will advertise longer burn times, but be careful, this calculation is made from the time you light the fire to the time there is absolutely no combustible left into the firebox. No matter what the appliance model is, the maximum BTU output will be obtained over approximately 33% of the total burn cycle. This represents 2 to 3 hours for a medium-size stove. So realistically, you will have to reload the unit every 3 or 4 hours in order to get the maximum heat out of your appliance when you are home. If you don’t reload the heater and let it burn the remaining fuel, your output will slowly decrease until there is no useful heat left to produce (we call this the “tail end” of the combustion cycle). This “tail end” will provide heat for another 4 to 5 hours. So if you are looking for a 6 to 8-hour burn time, make sure you choose an EPA or CSAB415.

1-10 certified wood heater with a BTU output (using cordwood) of 60,000 BTU or more. Appliances with that kind of output all have fairly large fireboxes. Those appliances will have a burn time of approximately 8 to 10 hours. The problem with an 8-inch chimney is that the appliance may struggle to heat-up the air volume contained inside the chimney. A hot chimney is required to create enough draft. Poor draft will inevitably lead to poor combustion, which will cause smoke roll backs, a dirty glass, lack of heat, and a large quantity of unburned fuel inside the firebox. It is therefore highly recommended installing a 6-inch liner inside the 8-inch chimney. This liner may be rigid or flexible. This is required because mobile homes (or manufactured homes) are often very airtight. Should there be a lack of combustion air, harmful levels of CO (carbon monoxide) could accumulate in the house. This is why mobile-home approved stoves have an adapter that hooks-up to the unit and connects to a fresh air intake on the outside wall of the house through an insulated pipe. If the heater is installed in an open room, in a house that is more or less air-tight, combustion air will normally be easily replaced. In this case, the installation of a fresh air intake is not required. It must, however, be noted that a fresh air intake, even if it is not mandatory, will always provide the advantage of better balancing the house with regards to combustion air. If the house has a powerful mechanical exhaust system that may be used while the heater is burning (ex: range hood), a fresh-air intake will be required. Very sharp looking unit. Fan is quiet and decently powerful. Heats the 863 sqft house with out the blower on. Thank you for a quality product at a reasonable price. Would recommend him in an instant. The Stove puts out a wonderful warm heat. We have been enjoying it all winter. We went from two fireplace inserts that weren't very effiecient, to this free standing unit.

It definitely heats up the house. Fill it up, let it go for about an hour, then shut it down for the night, and wake up to a cozy 70-72 degrees in the a.m. The plus for us is that it is acceptable in the state of Washington, whose requirements are more stringant than the E.P.A. Would definitely recommend this to anyone. So far we are happy with this purchase. We do not smell smoke in the house(unless I screw up.). That was a big concern. Its also a very attactive stove. Too bad I put it in the basement but thats where it will work best for us. SBI sells its products through several brands having a high recognition in their respective market niche. The Stoves listed require 5FT you can cut if you need to.if you need more rope you can. This stove replacement glass will withstand t. Dimensions:This stove replacement glass will withstand t. Part Number: 89930While this is what they are designed to do, sometimes this is just not enough. Boost the Heat output on your. Genuine USSC PartsThis Tab Is Used To Hold The Flue Collar To The Stove Body. These Stoves Requir. Part Number: 83432. Genuine USSC Parts Required for installation of these st. King Pe. Here are just a few features of the 2500 Country Hearth Wood Stove: Gaskets will need to be regularly replaced, and after many years of use the fiberboards and fire bricks may benefit from replacement. A well-maintained stove is the key to keeping wood heat safe and efficient, and Stove Parts for Less has everything you need for your 2500 Country Hearth Stove. Customize your appliance to suit your decor: refined door overlays, new leg designs, glass ash lip with integrated ash pan; significant innovations for the most seasoned experts. The recommended heated area for a given appliance is defined by the manufacturer as its capacity to maintain a minimum acceptable temperature in the designated area in case of a power failure.Buy it online or from your local dealer.